Lily Bird Studio Sandy Tunic Review and Giveaway.

Lily Bird Studio makes some of the cutest patterns.  I know I've talked about them before on the blog, but I really do love these designs..  I got to sew up their newest pattern, the Sandy Tunic and I'm in love!

This top has the sweetest pleated placket and the pattern makes it SO easy.  There are notches for where the folds are supposed to go so you don't even have to measure.  She included notches for the placket too!  Seriously, this top came together like a dream!

I sewed up a size 3 and it fits beautifully.  It's a bit longer than I expected but, then, I forgot to take off some length because I used a rolled hem instead of intended traditional hem.  My tunic is about 1 inch longer because it.  I also used the instructions for the ruffle neck included with Lily Bird Studio's Summer Blouse.  I've made several Summer Blouses which I've posted about here and here.

I know that my button holes look a bit wonky.  That's my fault because I forgot to add interfacing.  Don't judge the pattern based on my oversight.  The pattern actually calls for snaps instead of button but since I was sewing with swiss dot voile, I thought I'd stick with buttons.  I didn't think the voile could withstand the stress of snaps.

The pattern comes in long sleeve, 3/4 sleeve and short sleeve.  I sewed up the short sleeve version.  The short sleeve has the prettiest cut outs which are bound with bias tape and tie closed.  I love the way the tutorial made it easy to finish these off so nicely.

It has a slightly curved hem which I chose to finish using my rolled hem foot but the pattern has great instructions for hemming a curve.

I wanted the shirt to be lightweight for the summer so I used a lightweight oxford stripe shirting and swiss dot.  It is, indeed, lightweight and cool.  It will be perfect for warm weather.

Lily Bird Studios has generously offered to giveaway SIX of her patterns to my readers. There will be two winners.  The first place winner will receive 4 patterns and the second place winner will receive 2 patterns.  Learn how to enter at the end of this post!

Do you want to win a Sandy Tunic Pattern?  Or maybe Summer Blouse pattern?  What about the darling Birthday Dress which I posted about here?  Well, here's your chance!  The winner will be announced a week from tomorrow.  Share with everyone so that they can get a chance to win!

a Rafflecopter giveaway

Tulip Sleeve Jacket Tutorial

Previously, I'd posted this tutorial over at The Sewing Rabbit. I will show you how to draft your own tulip sleeved jacket from any existing bodice pattern you already have. You can use the info on making a tulip sleeve for anything you'd like from dresses to jackets.  I’ll show you how to make the rest of this cute jacket too while I’m at it. You can use any pattern in your stash that has a basic bodice and an inset short sleeve. Go grab your favorite. I used the bodice and short sleeve from five and ten designs. I sized up to give it more room so that it can be worn over tops. If your bodice pattern if pretty fitted, you’ll want to size up as well.

Here we go!

You can do this with a woman's pattern too and it would be so pretty over your summer dresses.

What you’ll need

Fabric for outside and lining fabric
Basic bodice pattern and sleeve pattern
Ruler
Paper
Pencil, marker or favorite writing utensil
Button



Alright, now that you have your pattern, put it on a piece of paper and trace it.

Next, flip it over and trace the other side so that you have a whole sleeve traced out.

Draw a line from the bottom corner to the opposite corner. This will be a guide for the next step. I used a lighter color pencil, but you don’t have to. Use what you have.

Using the bottom corner line as a guide, draw curved shape from about 1/3 of the way in to the bottom corner. I cheated and used my french curve ruler, but you can eyeball it just as easily. Just make it look something like this. You don’t have to be precise here. The curve you draw, will be the curve of your tulip overlap on your sleeve. You want it to be straighter at the bottom and more curved at the top but don’t worry too much.

Alright! Now, you cut it out. It will look like a petal. The straight side will be cut on the fold of your fabric, so mark it accordingly. Make sure to mark the size of your new pattern piece too.

Now, take your bodice front pattern, trace around it and add 1 inch to the center.

Decide how wide you want your button overlap to be. Mine was about 2 inches, so I measured down 2.5 inches (I added .5 inches for seam allowance). From that point, draw a curve down to the bottom of your pattern piece. I didn’t like the first curve I draw, so I did a second one. You can use a french curve ruler or you can eyeball it. When you’re done, cut out your new pattern piece, marking it correctly so you know what it is later.

Once you have your pattern pieces cut out, take them over to your fabric and cut out all your pieces. You should have 3 pattern pieces, the 2 you just made and you’ll use an unaltered bodice back piece that was paired with your bodice front from the original pattern.
4 front pieces – 2 outer and 2 lining
2 back pieces – 1 outer and 1 lining
2 sleeves

Once you cut your pieces, sew your fronts and backs together along the tops and the sides. You’ll have two unfinished bodices-one in your outer fabric and one in your lining. Put these two bodices, right sides together and sew them together along the outside leaving the armholes unsewn. Don’t forget to leave a space in the bottom to turn your pieces.

Okay, turn your pieces and then sew your bottom closed and topstitch the entire thing. It should look like a sleeveless jacket at this point. Next up, baste your arms together.

Hem your sleeves. Make sure you hem the right end. The straightest edge is the bottom.

Fold your sleeve in half, wrong sides together, to find the center. Place this fold on the seam line of the side of your bodice(right sides together). This will ensure that both sleeves are positioned the same on your top and look the same once they’re sewn on. Start pinning. Go toward the back of your bodice first if you want your tulip in the front. Go toward the front first if you want the tulip in the back. Mine was pinned back first, then front.

Pin all the way around. You’ll get to a point where your sleeve looks like this. It’s supposed to. Don’t panic! just keep lining up your sleeve, pulling your pins out and repinning all the layers together as you go along (aren’t you glad you basted earlier?!). Once you have all of your edges lined up and approximately 800 pins in place, take it to your machine and sew that puppy on!!

Turn right side out and check for puckers in your bodice. Make sure your sleeves look right. Use your seam ripper if you have any flaws. Inevitably, I always sew one sleeve on backwards so that I have one overlap at the front and one at the back. EVERY TIME!

Position your button where you want it and sew on your button hole and DONE!

Dance, holler, and cavort! Then, go take pictures of your cutie in her jacket.

Vintage May Inspiration

I've always loved the Vintage May series.  A lot of my sewing is vintage inspired, so the series speaks to me.  I enjoy seeing what everyone comes up with each time the series comes around.  This year, I decided to take the inspiration and sew a little something of my own.

I made a voile top with a sweet vintage-like floral print and a pair of high waisted, German inspired, shorts with suspenders circa the late 40's.  Depending on how it's worn, the two pieces give a very different look.

Queen Holden Paper Doll

Here is the vintage pattern I sewed up this fall for the Project Run and Play sew along.  It came straight from a vintage 40's pattern.  I loved the suspenders on both pieces but since I'd already done a look like this, I decided to do it a little different this time.  

I was also influenced by the high waisted shorts of the 50's and the flowing tops of the 70's.  So, my look isn't straight up vintage, but definitely inspired and merging several aspects.

 Greatly inspired by my 40's pattern and it's versatility - extra thick hems, removable straps, several pieces- and it's ability to grow with a child, I knew I wanted separates that could be worn many ways.

The top is made from voile and is light and airy.  It has buttons halfway down the back which leaves the back partly open.  It can be worn tucked in or loose (Miss wore it buttoned in the front today which is actually pretty cute).

The shorts are faux suede with a high waist and a sweetheart waist band.  They can be worn with the suspenders or they can be worn with the waist folded down and the top untucked.

This outfit will be fun for warm summer days and I think the shorts will also be great over tights this winter.  Versatility!

In the meantime, she will enjoy lazing in the sun and welcoming the summer breeze.

• Patterns: Brownie Goose Lazy Susan and Brownie Goose Sailor Shorts both modified
• Fabric: voile from fashionfabricsclub.com and faux leather from Joanne's

Sewing an inset at The Sewing Rabbit

I'm over at The Sewing Rabbit today with a tutorial on how to sew an inset on any bodice.  It's much easier than you'd think and easily adaptable for women's and girl's patterns.  Head over to my tutorial and I'll tell you all about it!

Easy Belt Tutorial

I wrote this post for The Sewing Rabbit originally, but I'm posting it here now for your enjoyment.  This is such an easy and quick little belt to put together, you can whip up in under 10 minutes.  I did all three in about 30, and that included the embellishments!

If your daughter is anything like mine, she loves accessories.  Miss has been carrying purses around she could walk.  It’s been close to 4 years now!  She also hasn’t been able to keep her pants up since she’s started walking, so I devised a plan that could be both fashionable and functional.  Crazy, I know!What’s really fun about this is how versatile and quick they are.  You can whip these puppies out in under 10 minutes!  Your daughter can help.  Miss and I will show you how to make this little bit of waist bling.

What you’ll need.

• 2 1 inch D rings
• ribbon about 1 inch wide (just make sure it fits inside your D rings)
• ric rac or other embelishments
• hot glue gun or fabric glue
• thread

To start with, measure your child’s waist.  I’ve found that what works best is to add 10 inches to that measurement, double it and then cut that amount from your ribbon.  That way your ribbon is doubled the entire length of the belt.  This is easy to do if your daughter has an itty bitty 19 inch waist but, if your daughter is 6 and has a bigger waist, or your working with scrap ribbon, make sure you have enough ribbon to go around the waist and at least 12 inches of extra.  Ok, now that we’ve done our math, let’s cut our ribbon!

Apply fray check to the ends of the ribbon or heat seal the ends to keep them from unraveling.

Thread the ribbon through both D rings.  Pin your ribbon as close to the rings as you can get to keep the rings from sliding around.  You can keep pinning the length of the ribbon if you’d like.  Some ribbon can get slippery.  It’s totally up to you.

For this next part, I put on my zipper foot.  You don’t have to use one if you don’t have one but the closer you can get to the D rings, the less they’ll slip around.  Now, sew down the width of your ribbon a couple of times, being sure to anchor the beginning and ending of your stitches.  Because the D rings are thick, you won’t be able to pivot and keep sewing, so you want to make sure this stitching doesn’t come undone.

Next, turn your belt and put the presser foot down as close to rings as you can get.  Sew down the length of your ribbon.  Turn where the second layer ends and sew the width, turn again, and sew back up the other side as close as you can get to the rings.  Again, make sure you anchor your stitches.

Now, thread your belt through and admire your handiwork!  Isn’t it lovely?  Isn’t it beautiful?  It’s super cute as it is, but we can kick it up a notch.

Pull out your rick rack and make a rose with it.  My daughter helped me.  You just start at one end and start rolling it until it’s the size you want.  Super easy.

When you get it the size you want it, pin it to keep it from unraveling and trim the excess off.  You can either use thread to sew through the whole thing a few times or you can glue a felt circle to the bottom.  I had some felt flowers so that’s what I glued to the bottom of mine.  Now, you can glue it to the front of your belt, making your cute belt even cuter!

I made three of these.  I like using grosgrain ribbon the best.  Satin ribbon tends to pucker.  They’re all very, very cute.  Miss decided to show you how she and her friends like to style them.

And these do work to keep pants up too, but it’s much more fun to wear them this way.  All three of them said so.

I'm moving!

We bought our first house!  This is exciting for us because we've been moving every couple of years for the last 8 years.  Things have gone awry with our rentals (owners selling, moving back in, deciding to rent to their children, fires...) so we are over the moon to finally have a place to truly settle into (we've already slapped some paint up on the walls!).

Unfortunately, that means another move.  This time, we're only moving a little ways, instead of across the state through a snow storm of doom, so things are looking up.  But, that means that sewing frenzy of procrastination needs to come to an end and I need to actually pack for my move next week.  Yeah, I said next week.

I'll be gone for a bit while I get things sorted out and put away.  Try not to miss me too much.

Last night I packed up most of my sewing room.  All of my fabric is in boxes.  All of my sewing notions are tucked into littler boxes inside bigger boxes.  All of my patterns are taped up and filed with all the other boxes against the wall.  I shall be wearing black until all is unpacked and I can back to what I love.

Lily Bird Studio Birthday Dress

I've sewn many patterns by Lily Bird Studio.  I love how well they're written and I love how well they fit.  I haven't blogged about all of them but I hope to do so in the future.  You've already seen a couple versions of her summer blouse in pink and cream.  I've also sewn her cuffed shorts and a couple of dresses.  I own most of her patterns outright :)

Did you know that one of these fabulous designer's patterns made it to the final four for the flip this pattern tour by Frances Suzanne?  Voting is still open!  Go take a look at all the wonderful designers and vote.

This is the birthday dress.  It is offered in infant sizes in one pattern in 0-24 months and older girls in 2T-8.  I love that this is available for such a large range of sizes.  

The dress has a button placket in the back, flutter sleeves, a lined bodice, empire waist, and sweet narrow belt.  The pattern also has a bottom ruffle, but I chose to leave it off to showcase the print on the dress.

The pattern has you use a narrow hem to finish the edges of the sleeves, but I chose to line mine with gold shot cotton to add some color and to match the belt.  I used the same fabric to line the bodice.  I thought it added an unexpected flash of color to the inside and it made me happy.  I usually use muslin batiste for my linings so I was branching out.

I sewed this up in a 2T and it fits beautifully with no alterations needed.  I did add a thread chain on both sides to hold up the little belt because it kept slipping down to her waist without it.

A perfect summer dress for my fun loving girl!

1. Pattern : Birthday Dress by Lily Bird Studio
2. Fabric: Aneela Hoey Meadow Daisy and Kaffe Fasset Shot Cotton in Squash